January 23, 2008

I Heart New York

Today, on the subway, there was a pale, elderly woman, with a white scarf wrapped around her white hair, her white skin lighter than the soft cream of her coat.

And next to her was a man with skin as dark as the night sky, his young face smooth and darker than his black coat.  I have never seen skin so darkly, so beautifully, black.

They were strangers. They took no notice of each other.

But I noticed them, and together, they were beautiful. What I love about New York - about New York in 2008, as opposed to 1958 -  is that sometimes difference is just ignored. They were just people on a train. Just beautiful people on a train.

November 09, 2007

Quoted in the Observer

I was quoted in my favorite NY paper/mag (well, besides the New Yorker) today, the New York Observer.

I like John Koblin's story - though because he was on stage, "in" the party, he didn't quite get the full effect.

Last night, Atlantic Monthly - excuse me, now it's just "The Atlantic" - threw a party to celebrate it's 150 Years.

The theme? The American Idea, the title of a recent issue and an essay anthology of Atlantic writers.

It's an important theme, and with bigwigs like Arianna Huffington, P.J. O'Rourke and former governor William Weld slated to speak, I expected something weighty.

Oh, no. No, no, no, no. Instead, those of us who bought tickets sat in an auditorium and watched a cocktail party. We watched the glitterati get drunk, grab asses, laugh loudly, shake hands and mingle, and eat smoked salmon. Without ever looking at the crowd of 860 watching them, because they are used to being watched and pretending not to notice.

Then the bigwigs mumbled through some  BS about what the American Idea means to them.

Then Patti Smith got up to play. And that woman, that rock star, she has some ideas about the America Idea. And those ideas are about justice, and speaking out, and the power of the ordinary person.

But the glitterati, they didn't want to hear Patti Smith's American Idea. So they just kept drinking, kept talking, trying to drown her out as she sang "the people have the power," tears clogging her voice.

September 11, 2007

September 11

Let's take a moment today and listen to the names. And remember how small most of our daily losses are, compared to this great hole in our hearts and in the ground.

August 30, 2007

Tonight in Washington Heights

Every evening, a lone trumpeter sings out from the low brick apartment building across the street. Tonight, he plays a single, sweet jazz riff over and over. He can't get the F.

I am walking my dog Max and we pause, as we always do, to try to figure out which window. I think the western-most one on the second floor, the one with the cool darkness behind rattling blinds. On the east side of that building, on the first floor, is an opera singer. She rehearses with piano in the afternoons. Even when the windows are closed I can hear the arias; when the windows are open I can see her, her broad back to me, her music snapping crisply in her hands.

We walk past the building on 160th and St. Nick, with its cage of noisy parakeets propped up against the steel bars. It is an apartment, I'm sure of it--but it is also a beauty shop, and on Saturday mornings, women chat on the couch with rollers and foil in their hair. A makeshift salon is on the fourth or fifth floor across from the back courtyard of my apartment, also. A buff gay guy lives there. I see flashes of him at night in his long mirror; some evenings, he stands before a woman and carefully holds up strands of her hair.

Tonight, the air is soft and almost wet. A girl with a long ponytail practices maneuvers on her skateboard; a white woman woman comes up from the C train with pink roses nestled carefully in a  shopping bag and twin blisters on her heels, red spots revealed by her flipflops.  Max and I cross the street, past a small gang of children doing what one of them calls the "chicken little" dance, with complicated feet and a few jerks of the chin. If it were afternoon and sunny, these same kids would be playing baseball, or stickball, a broom handle cracking against a ball made of hard, white rubber.

An entire family is camped out on a stoop, their toddler screaming when she sees my dog; her mother smiles at me and comforts her. They speak to me all at once in a rapid-fire English/Spanish. "His name is Max," I say. "No, he's not a wolf." I have rehearsed this speech, and I can say it in a halting Spanglish in return. I have seen this family before, too. On Sundays, the men haul out a white plastic table and folding chairs or milk crates and play a slapping, militant game of dominos.

The firefighters have turned on the fireplug across from their station. They watch lazily as it shoots water in a blue arch onto the street. From where I live it looks like a fountain, back lit by a car's aqua headlights. We start to walk home. Two rats, the size of the small dogs the neighborhood Dominican women carry, munch contentedly at the vulnerable corners of a plastic bag left out for tomorrow's trash. Max takes no notice.

He does notice, however, the chicken bones that are scattered everywhere on the sidewalk, like a talisman. I never see anyone eating chicken. Yet there are always the bones around the bases of trees, and they are tempting to dogs. He tries not to look at me as he pulls toward them. I jerk him away.

A trio of men stand by an open car door that's playing reggaeton. A city bus thunders by, one of the new hybrids. Max and I make our final circle,  through the darkened, cobbled streets of Jumel Terrace. The gate to the mansion is closed, as it always is at night. Still, we look for a glimpse of the resident Tom cat who usually  splays out on the  schist  wall. Yankee Stadium shines in the distance across the river, brighter than the waning moon. On quiet evenings, with the right wind, the name "Alex Rodriguez!" or a snippet of the national anthem will float gently over to our borough and flutter in the trees.

I trudge slowly up the steps to our brownstone. The trumpeter tries one more time. Dark has fallen completely.

August 05, 2007

Homeless but homey

There are two guys who work for the building next door. I think they're homeless---or maybe not homeless, exactly, but I think they might sleep curled up next to the trash area at night behind the locked door---it amounts to the same thing.

Usually I come home to find them sitting in the doorway, splitting a paperbagged-bottle between them.

Or they'll be hauling trash out from their little door, sweat running down their faces.

They do little things for our block, too. Take away the circulars left on renters' doorsteps, pull in anything that needs to be recycled on the block and put it back out in recycling shape. Sometimes they ask me for a few dollars. I usually say no. Politely.

Tonight, coming home, one of the men smiled at me as he always does, and asked how I was.

I replied as I always do: "I'm fine, thanks. How are you today?"

Tonight he said: "Better, darling, now that I know you're home safe."

I laughed. He slapped his knee, and said, "Now that's what I was looking for."

June 04, 2007

Favorite widget of the day


Overheard in New York

May 24, 2007

Fado

My cousin is in town for a week, and last night I joined her and two of her friends at a Portugese restaurant in the Village, called Alfama .

Cecilia, one of my cousin's friends, is Portugese herself, and joked with the waiters and gave us suggestions on what to order. When the old women in their pearls and black shawls started singing the traditional Fado--music that is both melancholy and mischievious--Cecilia sang along, and soon all of us at the table were joining in a chorus we didn't understand.

April 13, 2007

bock bock

Max and I walked by an empty lot today about two blocks from our house.

In the lot were two chickens. A proud rooster and a very fluffy hen. Around the corner from the Rite Aid.

Love this City.

February 27, 2007

A Spoonful of Sugar

I'm pretty sure I just saw Mary Poppins on the train. The real Mary Poppins, not Julie Andrews.

She wore a neat brown coat and neat olive rubbers. A neat olive attache was slung over one shoulder. A pink winter scarf brought out the same pink in her cheeks, made her blue eyes and curled golden hair look almost childlike. And then there was the hat. A broad-brimmed black boater with a startle of flowers.

She was whimsical. Not just the hat, but the way she was looking around the subway car, as if any moment she might either break into song or take someone to gentle task for having their feet up on the seats.

February 19, 2007

The Village

The last time I lived in New York, I was in high school. The streets were dirty then, and there were always cars honking. I would commute into the city on the train, and then wander around the Village, listening to Lou Reed and Simon & Garfunkel on my Walkman, watching intense games of basketball in the cage on W. 3rd, strolling into headshops and militant bookstores as if the wares they sold didn't scare me, as if they didn't belong to some world other than the tiny suburban one I lived in.

The Village is so chic now. I was there this afternoon with Naomi to see the new Nader documentary at the IFC. There are jazz clubs with bouncers and pricey Italian places, and boutiques selling only shoes. We asked for directions to Broadway, but everyone on the corner was a tourist, and no one knew whether it was east or west.

But then we had dinner at a noodle place near NYU, Dojo, and in the bathroom was graffiti I could have written once: "When will I stop being lonely?" and graffiti I would have wished I had been brave enough to write: "Bomb the patriarchy!"

OK, I thought. New York is still here. It's still here, under the gloss of the streets.